Chanel Fall Winter 2023 Collection: The return of the legendary camellia

In the enchanting darkness of the Grand Palais Éphémère, a giant, pristine white camellia flower stands elegantly at the center of the runway. A white camellia flower is also placed on the seat of each guest. After more than a century of serving as a humble motif on clothing, jewelry, accessories, and cosmetics, the Chanel icon has finally become the focal point of a collection.

Coco Chanel's beloved camellia is used freely yet distinctly through Viard's refined aesthetic lens. First, camellia flowers are intricately embroidered alongside the iconic tweed check pattern on coats. Then, camellias are adorned in clusters on leather jackets; woven into exquisite lace patterns on knitwear; and silver buttons are sculpted into graceful camellia flowers, adding to the collection's charm.

Furthermore, the camellia takes on new forms and "blooms" on denim fabric, and even on bags, with large flowers and even bag designs mimicking blooming camellias. The camellia is abstractly combined with the intertwined "C" logo in a bold mod print. The flowers are shrunk in size and scattered like polka dots on knitwear and coats. Camellias are everywhere, but never too much.

Along with the familiar tweed jackets, quilted bags, and black dresses, Virginie Viard brought new, more innovative silhouettes to the Paris runway than the usual Chanel elegance. Instead of flared trousers and sharp pencil skirts, two-piece outfits with short pants are given more priority: fitted shorts, knee-length trousers, and slim-fitting shorts with floral prints. The most elaborate outfit is only a layered silk dress with camellia print, worn with knitwear to add versatility to the designs. Bermuda cuts, lace-trimmed short trousers, tweed trousers, and asymmetrical dresses create a daringly innovative vibe for Viard's typically classical Chanel.