Coordinated by The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion / FCHM), Paris Men’s Fashion Week marked the final stop of menswear fashion week for the spring - summer 2024 season. The showroom session occurred at the Palais de Tokyo, Paris, from June 21 - 25. A variety of shows and presentations were hosted by up-and-coming brands, including Ami Paris and Kiko Kostadinov, as well as representative houses of French fashion like Givenchy and Hermès. 

Overall, Paris observed a stylistic back-and-forth between the past and present eras of time-honored houses, namely Dior Homme, Loewe, and Louis Vuitton. 

Dior Homme: “From New Look to New Wave”

Kim Jones, creative director of Dior Homme, said the newest menswear collection from Dior is a tribute to his five years at the house, as well as Dior’s past and present.

The collection represents “a collage of influences and pop iconography [that] takes shape in a mechanical garden of ‘hommes fleurs’, simultaneously embracing tradition and subversion: from the feminine to the masculine; from the salon to the street; from the New Look to the New Wave”, according to the house.

Dior signatures, particularly tweeds, embroideries, and cannage, are embraced by a fuse of fantasy and practicality. The unique blend of different Dior eras and techniques brings a playful yet elegant complexity to spring and summer favorites: polo, crewneck, and cardigan. 

The 1995’s Lady Dior bag inspires the shoes, with a new circular logo on heavy-soled loafers and slides. (Source: Dior)
The hats were made of Ronghua, a kind of velvet flowers that trace their origin back to the Tang dynasty (618-907) in China. (Source: Dior) 

Loewe - Playing with view and angle

Known for its distinctive take on the interweave of men and women’s fashion, as well as the dramatic mix-and-match, Loewe’s newest menswear collection from creative director Jonathan Anderson stays true to the brand’s reputation. Anderson explained the inspiration behind his collection: “It's always about trying to find contradictions in men and women: like how do you blur all of that? I feel like something in this is very precise in that message, it's very reduced, very luxe”.

The costumes are characterized by high-waisted jeans, knitted and sparkling tops, as well as a surprising appearance of jacquard tops in the form of large fabric swatches. “Legs are long, the waist is high, the bust becomes compact”, according to the house. The runway view from a wide angle, curved by large and small fountains, further emphasizes this effect of the collection. 

A jacquard top transformed into a fabric swatch, held together by an oversized steel pin. (Source: Loewe)
American sculptor Lynda Benglis’ water fountains played a critical role in shifting the audience’s view of the stage, illustrating the “fish-eye lens” effect, according to Anderson. (Source: The Impression)

Louis Vuitton - Modernized traditions with a personal twist

American singer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams’ debut collection at Louis Vuitton as the Men’s Creative Director was remarked to be “a paradigm shift…one that recenters fashion in the universe of art and entertainment”, according to GQ Style Editor Noah Johnson. The collection is a fuse between Williams’ personal styles - which help define American entertainment in the past century - and inspirations from Williams’ predecessors - including late Men’s Creative Director Virgil Abloh and Louis Vuitton himself.

This unique energy of the collection manifests in amusing checkerboard patterns, digitalized into what Williams called “Damouflage” that resembles Minecrafts, and a variety of accessories like hats, glasses, and bags that pay tributes to Louis Vuitton symbols throughout history. 

House Ambassador Zendaya at the show. (Source: Louis Vuitton) 
Williams’ “Damouflage” on a bag inspired by Louis Vuitton’s iconic Alma and Keepall bags. (Source: Louis Vuitton) 
The illuminated stage was set at the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, France, characterized by the Damier (checkerboard) pattern. (Source: Louis Vuitton) 

 

Hazel