Having made its stop in London, England, and Florence, Italy, earlier in June, the Men’s Fashion Week Spring - Summer 2024 arrived in Milan with a blend between heritage houses of Italian menswear - Prada, Emporio Armani, Brioni - and rising brands - Magliano, Jordanluca, Federico Cina, as well as international brands like JW Anderson and Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Milan Men’s Fashion Week was hosted by The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion). 

Journalist Colleen Barry commented that the post-pandemic menswear was “landing somewhere between resort, adventurer and tailoring” during the shows. The boundaries and traditions of men’s fashion were reinterpreted, namely with collections from Valentino, D&G, and Gucci. 

Valentino - “The Narratives"

Opening the week, the Italian brand Valentino returns to the menswear schedule in Milan after 3 years of co-ed shows - as a tribute to where the first Valentino menswear show was staged by founder Valentino Garavani in 1985. “The Narratives” collection brings a delicate twist to the traditional masculine pieces, with softened shapes and youthful styles, where “transformed contexts can shift perception” of individuality and masculinity. Piccioli imagines the collection to be “a strength [that] can be found in fragility, a power in gentleness, a perfection in imperfection”. 

The Valentino “the Narratives” menswear Spring/Summer 2024 collection represents “a  moment to redefine an identity of men, to re-examine a meaning of masculinity, to discover a new, modern perspective”, according to Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli. (Source: Valentino)
“Working within traditions allows a questioning of conventions - rules are broken, changes actioned from inside”, Valentino on its latest collection. (Source: Valentino)

D&G - “Stile”

“The tank-top, the coppola, the rosary, the black, the jacket, Sicily” - the essence of the Italian brand D&G is captured by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in their newest collection, according to fashion features editor Jack Moss. Flowers, embroidered on jacket lapels and shirt collars, create a sense of grace and intricacy throughout the collection. Various layering techniques showcase the way seemingly opposing styles blend together, highlighting innovation and craftsmanship. 

Titled “Stile” (Style), D&G’s collection “presents a curated assortment that portrays the effortless demeanor of a discerning and enlightened man”. (Source: D&G)
“The focus is on refreshed ensembles that embrace a tailoring approach, skillfully accentuating the male form with structured volumes”, according to the house. (Source: D&G)

Gucci - “Gucci Horsebeat Society”

A mix of distinct textures - varying from bouclê, jacquard to raw indigo - and styles - with streetwear and formal attire, “Gucci Horsebeat Society” is “a sophisticated remix of Gucci's rich history”, according to Forbes editorial director Sylvain Justum. The Gucci Horsebit Loafer, first launched in 1953, takes the spotlight with blazers, shorts, signature handbags - and even sparkle. The collection features a range of colors with blue, beige, red, and so on, accentuating the devil-may-care spirit inspired by the stirrup of horses.

The Italian house Gucci’s last collection before the debut of its new creative director, Sabato de Sarno, is structured around one of the brands’ signatures: the Gucci Horsebit Loafer. (Source: Gucci)
The collection is made up of “wide-leg tailoring, oversized embroidered denim and sportier short sets”. (Source: Gucci)

 

Hazel